Wednesday, 16 March 2011

Travelling...a Conclusion

I've probably only scratched the surface on Latin Culture.

That said the past 9 months have been an opportunity to Spectacle, Sample and taste some of the unique experiences I might not have otherwise.

If took away anything away from "this"... it would be some fond memories, an appreciation for close ones, a little more patience and some broken Spanish.

I have also come to realise despite all the "sugar coated" good times their have been some unpleasant ones too...
It is these (the unpleasantries... the times when I was close to losing hope, feeling danger or being pushed to my physical limits)....that I will value the most...
For it is these that I learned from the most and will resonate the longest.

Heck... I wish I could sit here and tell you how I'd "found myself"




(....but I'm definitely none the wiser).

Angel Mac

Seeing as it was "kinda on the way" I decided to swing by the big apple on the way home.

Indulgence was the order of the day and I set about partaking in the all "the things" I missed and love...disco dancing, record shopping, micro brewed beer, carrot cake etc



New York...its just like any other major city

(Like any other city...just really really good).



Speaking of good... I unexpectedly stumbled across a concert on a trip to the Brooklyn Museum... what followed was a couple of hours of what can only be described as (really nice) Afro Jazz Folk Music

Check it.

Spring Break

And so I conclude my Latin American journey in the least Latin American place on this continent...Cancun.

It wasn't supposed to be this way (I'm definitely supposed to be in far more "edgy" Mexico City right now), but alas ...this is travel (and my initial Airline didn't have enough money to fill the tank).

Besides... it wasn't too much of a hardship ending my trip on nearby Isla Mujeres (Woman Island)

Tuesday, 8 March 2011

Dive Porn

Generally lifeless, "Cenotes"...a cavern (or sinkhole) filled with a body of water (or in the case of this sinkhole..."bad urban engineering") were one of the attractions of the Yucatan Peninsula (the others happened to be more Mayan ruins, white sandy beaches and some tequilla hangovers)



...Turns out exploring tunnels, swimming through small dark holes and the visual effects of haloclimes can be pretty fun.

You can see the dives here

Angelita

and the Calavera (or Temple of "Doom")

(Properly cool shit
.... if your into wearing rubber)

Believe

"Some guy" said I can take a boat from Belize to Mexico...

I´m glad he did...


As a result I ended up in Caye Caulker.

20 mins away from the mainland, drenched in Creole culture and split in half by a hurricane Hattie (or wasit?)... had more in common with a Carribean paradise.

Everyting Irie

Tickle Champey

Semuc Champey (a series of "rather cool" coloured cascading lagoons)...


Tikal (ancient Mayan Ruins)


... some would say (Guatemalan) tourist musts.


Here they are all located in one nice package.

Sunday, 27 February 2011

Quasimodo

Taking a series of chicken buses through various "two bit" towns (and some rather hairy mountainous roads) I found myself in the highland city of Quetzaltenango...

Quetzaltenango...Locally known (and thankfully abbreviated) to Xela (...pronounced Schela) had little draw for the tourist on the surface.... It did however have a thriving Spanish School Scene, countless trekking opportunities, a few mankey markets and.... even a Japenese Garden.

Yeah... I probably would of got stuck here if I didn´t have the itch to see and do as much as humanly possible in the next 13 days.

(Scared to get back on the bus) We walked from there to Lake Atitlan in 3 days...
(Hauling all the food, water and sleeping equipment for the trip ourselves...I would of felt more of a sense of achievement if the 63 year old couple who joined us... Ace´d it)

Respect Gramps

Head for the hills

Time rearing its ugly head... I skipped through Honduras and El Salvador "willy nilly" and found myself in (the Colonial Disneyland of) Antigua.

If I was looking for the real Gutemala... it wasn´t going to be here.


Side Note: The real Guatemala might be in "Gute" city... which I visited for all of 5 mins, but concerned my mother all the same.

Wednesday, 23 February 2011

Channel 4ARC

Brought to my attention... recent More4 documentary on the lost city kiddnappings in 2003

"In 2003, Mark Henderson was one of eight backpackers taken hostage while trekking in the Colombian jungle. What started as an innocent tourist adventure ended up as 101 terrifying days of captivity.

Eleven months after his release Mark received an email from Antonio, one of his kidnappers. Another of the hostages, Reini from Germany, received a facebook friend request from Antonio's girlfriend, another of their captors. That email was the start of a five-year correspondence between hostage and kidnapper that eventually drew Mark back to the one part of the world he thought he'd never see again and face-to-face with the man who had once held the key to his freedom.

This deeply personal, authored documentary follows Mark and three of his fellow hostages as they return to the Sierra Nevada mountains in northern Colombia: the place where they lived out their worst nightmares.

As they travel deeper into the jungle, they discover the truth behind their kidnapping, come to understand how they all dealt with the ordeal and finally confront two of their kidnappers.

My Kidnapper is an emotional journey into the heart of a kidnapping, told from all sides. True Stories commissions and showcases the best feature documentaries from around the world."


Original post

Watch it here (UK only)

Wednesday, 16 February 2011

Wisdom comes in grid format

This is Franco...


Franco lives in Leon...

I paid him a quid to recount his experiences of the Somoza dictatorship (of which I knew nothing about).

(... I was still really none the wiser afterward so I wiki´d it)





This is Cerro Negro...


An active Volcano just outside Leon.

We climbed it and then rode down it on a piece of plywood.


This woman wrote a detailed piece about her experiences... which, based on the fact that she writes for the New York times, I´ve (lazily) decided I cannot do a better job...

I learn´t little about Nicaragua... but decided it was fun all the same.




This is cock fighting.


...in Leon´s rural 'burbs

I learn´t that Roasters aren´t particularly fond of each other and sometimes the locals like to attach blades to their spurs and put them in ring to "have it out"

Leon...properly insightful

Tuesday, 15 February 2011

Maduros


Been eating these badboys for a while... (that and rice and beans with...well... everything)...

Anyway I came across this dudes recipe




(Plantains... pretty much available in any "decent" convenient/Latin or Caribbean specialist food store near you)

Wednesday, 9 February 2011

Tea Leaf

Keen for some company (see post below)... I headed to the small and very photogenic Colonial town of Granada.

Like most Colonial towns...there was a lot of churches (...none of which I visited)

My company that evening (a Scandinavian) fell victim to (a very uncatholic) bag snatching incident... "the assailant" making the the faux paux of running into a fire station where he was subsequently held (by big burly men holding chair legs and Machetes)

After professing his innocence, (whilst...I may add... handing me back the desired swag)...he wept a little.
(although I´d like to think that my intimidating tone/body language had something to do with that)

...Criminals have feelings too

Billy no mates


"From Rivas - Take the bus that is going to Granada. Ask the driver to drop you off at Pozo de Oro 1 km. past Guanacaste and the trail to Mombacho.
From the bus stop follow the road up the hill 150 mtrs. Stay left.
There is an entrance behind the second goal post in the football field. We are 50 mtrs. up."



Being Potse Rojo´s only guest...looks like I´m the only who made the effort that day...

2 Nights... One guide book...

and a lot of contemplation

Floor De Cain ya

Beaches... pretty much unavoidable on this continent

That and... Scandinavians

San Juan del Sur...3 nights, surfing (... boogie boarding), too much Ron and (as resulting) some feeble attempts at a healthy lifestyle...

Here's hoping that Yoga and Granola reverse kidney damage

Thursday, 3 February 2011

Volcanicity

It turns out I love Volcanoes me...

Conception was a good un...

little bit active...
nice arched back...
bit loose at the top...

She and her sister made an Island in the middle of lake Nicaragua.

At first I admired from a far
...then, on two wheels... all angles
Finally, at climax... scaling her 1600m summit

...
..
.
What I found at the top was a hideous beast of a personality...

her steep loose (occasionally warm) face, (sulphur laced) gale force winds reduced this gringo into a stumbling, crab walking, nervous wreck of man.

Conception...She left me a bit sore and burnt

Costa Rica in Briefs


...when they let me off the bus

Knick Knack PADI Whack

Bocas Del Torro... cheapest place in the world to get PADI certified (...allegedly)

When I wasn´t checking my O ring for damage, embracing my BCD or making my wet suit "momentarily" warmer... I found the time to cycle/water taxi to the islands many beaches...


Darth Vader

Friday, 28 January 2011

Panama Hat

Panama City... first port of call for the Central America leg of my (self indulgent, glutinous) "journey".

...They dug a canal straight through it so that people could wave at me in 2011...


Pictorials

Sunday, 23 January 2011

Bag face

"yeah you look like that guy from Batman...


...the one with the bag on his face"


...had this a few times but I fail to see the resemblance

Saturday, 22 January 2011

Lost n´ Found

After celebrating the turn of the New Year with sufficient force ... (we done it proud...look)

... Dave the rave "did one" back to London town

...(although watch out!... No one is safe from his bedknobs and broomsticks impression)



Becca and I on the other hand headed back to the North east coast to find the lost city ...

Magic Tour would help us do this by feeding us a serious intake of carbohydrates...
(...one meal consisting of rice, pasta, corn, yam, plantain AND bread)

...these dudes... on the other hand would "supposedly" keep us safe from the FARC...






...After 5 days of wadding through rivers and clambering around in mud... I nearly got myself clean booted out of (an unsuspecting) taxi fare for smelling "unreasonable"

(...unreasonable by "his standards")...

We (Becca and I) were heading for Taganga... a small fishing village 10 mins up the coast from Santa Marta, (primarily to clean up and) rest out mosquito ridden bodies before her imminent departure 4 days later...

Those were some good 5 weeks but (unfortunately) this Colo is once again Solo

Sunday, 16 January 2011

Californication

After establishing that "Torres" was Spanish for Bulls...

(...established by making fingers for horns)

...we took to our seats for afternoon of bloodshed executed with flamboyance...packaged as entertainment.

The Plaza Del Torres would host this Bullfighting spectacle on the run up to NYE...

(...it would also host very drunk men baying for blood)



Despite the obvious cruelty (...by 6 o clock their were 6 less bulls on this planet)...
... it was "kinda" fun...

...the headliner, Luis Bolivar put on quite the show of (Camp) bravery (?)


That said a small (....very sick) part of me enjoyed watching the moment an inexperienced matador got "totally taken out the game"...

(... No photographic evidence unfortunately)

Feliz Ano Nuevo from Cali

P.S... Salsa is ghey



(... ghey because I´m rubbish at it)

Sunday, 2 January 2011

Body POP ayan

We came...

...We ate...

we cycled...

...we celebrated cycle by eating

...bought some crap

...celebrated buying of crap by eating



Popayan...Columbia... a passing (but pleasant enough) visit

My hips dont lie

The decision to visit the desert was made lightly...

(...a fatigued 5 min scan of the guide book was sufficient)

...but we found ourselves in the small town of Villaviaje the following evening.


Villavieja, (our plucky guide) "Juan" (and his three wheeled beast) would be our portal to the Tatacoa desert

(the desert I´m told...featured in one of Shakira´s early music videos).


...Villavieja didn´t appear to see much tourism

...evident when accommodation appeared to be someones shed

NavyDad

Defying airport closures and proving that Scotsman do fly...

we bumped into (friend) Dave Williams at El Dorado Airport...


Seeing as he´s here for the next 10 days... we thought (it might be nice) to spend Christmas and New Years Eve together...

(that said) Christmas day had been spent falling in and out of conscieness on a bean bag...after celebrating Jesus´s actual birthday the night before drinking aguadiente (a sambuca like liquor native to Columbia).


One of the moments I was awake (and could pull myself away from the masterpiece that is "forgetting sarah marshall")... I mustered the energy to arrange some Christmas Lunch... A plate of Chips and a Snickers (..."for afters")

(belated) Christmas wishes from Bogota

Checklist

Occasional challenges... Utilizing time... Self appointed tasks...

Life can sometimes feel like a checklist

Thankfully the challenges were minor (and often out of ones control)

The tasks... trivial (do laundry, apply sun cream, arrange transport)... sometimes (thankfully) fun (take photos, eat things, hit the beach...bathe in mud)

Cartagena... ticked all the boxes...



Prop Joe

People had often referred to the rains on the north coast...

(...looking at the houses submerged in water...it turns out it rained pretty hard for pretty long)

Prop joe (again appointed) (...appointed because he drew a striking resemblance to Proposition Joe of "The Wire") agreed to take us from Maracaibo to Maicao (...which was surprisingly confusing for me at the time)...


Maicao being "our fastest and easiest" portal into Columbia...

...this (however) proved to be (long and) difficult...what with the flooding, the lack of buses (caused by the flooding) and the dozens of officials requiring bribes for right of passage...

Prop Joe...would be the man to arrange these "gifts" (although occasionally he would ask the passengers for more money...whilst him and his crew (driver included) kept themselves well hydrated with beer...

Unlike his characters (reasonable but still...very...criminal) behaviour... he would leave us stranded at the boarder (slightly pissed of course)

Prop Joe... What a wanker